Happy birthday Bent Mast!

By Rita Button

On April 19, 1995, at 4:00 pm, the Bent Mast opened its doors to the unsuspecting public. Those first customers who streamed through the doors had no idea the treats the Seto family had in store for them. Today, April 19, 2015 at 4:00 pm, the tables beneath the red and white balloons on the patio were filled with patrons happy to be a part of the twentieth birthday party. They weren’t there just because it was a beautiful sunny afternoon, or because they were hoping to win a door prize, or because the chocolate cake was about to be cut and served. No, they were there to show their appreciation for the Seto family’s restaurant that was started by their son Jerry and his partner Kate twenty years ago.

To begin the birthday party, Councillor Chris Coleman, who could easily remember the first day The Bent Mast opened, spoke about its positive influence. “The community has never been the same since,” he said, and quickly added, “in a good way!” Next, Mr and Mrs Seto cut the ribbon, very high quality, difficult to cut, but suddenly the ribbon was cut, and the Setos’ began to mingle with the guests. It was a pleasure to watch Mr Seto, 90 years old, and his wife, Susan, who is 89, welcome the guests and show their appreciation for their participation today and in days past. One man took off his sunglasses, and as he squinted into the sun, Mrs. Seto said, “Oh, I remember you!” She stopped for more conversation, and that’s how it went for the next while.

Their son Jack accompanied them, underlining the feeling of family and community that permeated the event. Jack made a point of talking to everyone. He said, “Everyone who comes to our restaurant is an honourable person. That is what it felt like to be there: respected and convivial, family and community.

Jack, who lives in Vancouver, commented on the community and family that have become an integral part of the restaurant. “That fence,” he said, pointing toward Toronto Street, was made with the help of some of our customers. The glass blocks toward the back of the house, just outside the door to the kitchen, were placed there by me, every individual block is my signature.” I also heard him joking with friends who were enjoying the party: “I do some work around here; if I’m lucky, I might get fed - family, you know!”

The family works hard.  Jack’s grandfather was a tailor; his dad, Jim was also a tailor and owned a dry cleaning business, Fashion Cleaners, in Esquimalt. In addition to these two trades, Jim eventually worked for the BC Ferries, three jobs, one person, but his impish smile suggests that he has enjoyed his life and his family. He recounted the story that his father had created clothes for Hollywood stars Jimmy Durante and Frank Sinatra, but he was most proud of their friendship with Lloyd Nolan who gave them an autographed photograph.

Susan Seto, too, has made her mark on the family’s success. When the restaurant was just beginning, she and Jim made spring rolls by hand. As well, her chicken wings, listed on the menu as “Mom’s Chicken Wings” had an enthusiastic following. When things changed, and she was no longer able to contribute the personalized items for the restaurant, customers noticed, complained a bit, but the Bent Mast was where they wanted to be, so they learned to like the machine-made spring rolls.  “Mom’s chicken wings” are still the most popular item on the menu today.

In the beginning, the menu was eclectic. “Chinese, Ukrainian, Japanese, French Canadian, and what is called North American were all a part of the food experience,” Jack explained.  The Setos had sourced the food for quality and flavour and would go to Vancouver to pick up what was needed. They’d take along big coolers and into one would go the fifty pound bag of perogies, and into the other would be stuffed the rest of the ingredients needed to make the eclectic menu a reality. There was also a limited Dim Sum menu. Susan even made the occasional authentic home-style Chinese dishes for some of the patrons of the restaurant.

Food was not the only experiment that the Setos tried at the restaurant. Entertainment was also a little different from the mainstream. Jam sessions were often a part of what happened; patrons could bring their own instruments and join the musicians. As well, singing would happen. People in the restaurant and bar would sing in happy conviviality. And some nights, they would have French speaking only in the bar and restaurant. However, some of these events were not allowed by the BC’s liquor laws, so they no longer occur.

But the fun of going to the Bent Mast continues. I watched as people came by to say hello to Jack and his parents, many of them saying that they’d been present on the first night and on many nights after. Others came to say that they’d been coming for only two years, but loved the place. I think this tradition must have its foundations in the idea that every patron is an honourable person, and its reputation of being a safe place invites many to stop for a minute to enjoy a little time away from the duties of the world.

In his thanking the people for coming, Jack mentioned his brother Jerry who had started the restaurant. “Although he could not be here today, he is with us in spirit,” he said. Jerry passed away suddenly on December 31, 2009. He and Kate started a great place where people love to be.

John Chandler, the Hudson Bay accountant who had the house built for he and his wife in 1884, would be quite surprised to see what has become of his house with the kitchen in the basement. I’m sure he’d want to hang around for some food and drink while he enjoyed the feeling of family and community that is a part of The Bent Mast.

Door prizes were donated by Jane’s Flowers, Superior Pizza, Starbuck’s, Serious Coffee, Discovery Coffee, Fingers & Toes Spa, Coast Capital, Don’s Food Market who contributed a beautiful floral arrangement, and the Bank of Montreal who paid for the cake that Thrifty’s made.